Saturday, May 2, 2015

Japan



As a travel destination, Japan was not at the top of my ‘to visit’ list.  My mantra was always to visit the less developed countries first, before moving onto the developed nations.  However, ever since my little cousin was born, I knew I had to make a visit.  So, along with my trusty travel buddy K, we embarked on a scarcely planned 2.5 week trip to Japan.  I’d say about a month of serious planning went into this trip, from generating an itinerary to researching possible accommodations.  

We planned this trip to maximize family time, and explore a mix of touristy and off the beaten path destinations.  From my previous trip to Taipei, I knew that I absolutely wanted to avoid crowds if possible.  I know you’re thinking, Japan is super populated, how are you going to avoid crowds?  It’s very doable!  Tokyo was an exception, but everywhere else was not too crowded.  

Our itinerary was: family time, Kanazawa, Matsumoto, hiking the Nakasendo from Tsumago to Magome, Tokyo, family time, Hiroshima, Onomichi, biking the Shimanami Kaido, and back to Tokyo.
Transportation

From top left: cherry blossoms by the river in Kanazawa, Matsumoto Castle, the famous scramble crossing in Shibuya, sunset at Sunset Beach in Setoda
We opted to buy the 14 day JR Rail pass.  Using Hyperdia.com, we were able to calculate what each leg of rail travel would cost, and compare that to the cost of the JR Rail pass.  Our estimates showed that we would be spending double without the rail pass.  I haven’t tallied up the total cost of rail, but we ended up taking the train even more than initially projected.  The JR Rail pass also gave us the flexibility to walk in and out of JR stations as much as we needed to.  This proved to be SO HELPFUL as we often went out the wrong exit and needed to cross back through the station to get to the right exit.  Most of the time we reserved seats as we found it easier to sit together this way.  

While I didn’t have data access, my travel buddy did.  She has an unlocked phone and bought a 1 month sim card for data only at Narita airport.  This also proved to be extremely useful (but also a distraction – hard to unplug when there’s internet access in the palm of your hand!).  Using a mixture of a Japan Rail app (can’t recall the name), and Google Maps, we were able to easily plan out each rail journey.  Japan trains are ALWAYS on time (except for that one train which you will hear about later...), so it was easy to figure out when we needed to get off the train by looking at the schedule via the apps.  Train’s supposed to be in Kanazawa at 12:15pm?  Okay, we should get off the train then.  

There were two types of train travel that we did – long distance shinkasen and local trains, and the commuter trains in Tokyo.  Shinkasen travel is super easy as there are only a few shinkasen tracks at each station.  Local trains have a few more options (maybe max. 4 tracks?).  But in Tokyo, the commuter trains have SO MANY OPTIONS for tracks and lines.  Navigating Tokyo’s JR rail system was probably the most confusing part of the trip.  The good thing with Tokyo’s commuter trains is that they run every 2-5 minutes, so if you miss one, another one is always nearby.  We didn’t even touch the subway/metro system as we wanted to make use of our JR passes.  We did take the new waterfront transit to Odaiba, but that was super straightforward as there is only one line.  
Map of the Greater Tokyo-Yokohama JR network.  So easy to travel pretty far in a short time distance!
Tokyo Subway map! 
 

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Here We Go Again!!!

Tomorrow I'm going to Japan!  After 2 weeks of furious planning, tomorrow is the day we leave.  Have I finished packing? Absolutely not.  Just started about 1 hour ago actually.

Wish me luck!!!

Our itinerary will bring us to Tokyo, Saku, Niigata, Kanazawa, Hiroshima, Magome/Tsumago, and Onomichi/Imabari.  Many hours of train and shinkasen travel await.  Funny thing is, when I was in Taiwan last year, I really wanted to take the bullet train, but chickened out.  Well, after this trip to Japan, I suspect that I will be sick and tired of train riding :p

Wish me luck!

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Trip Report: Maungmakan Beach -> Yangon


Day 15: Yangon to Dawei to Maungmakan Beach 
  •  Flew Air Mann Yadarnapon to Dawei.  Flight was also on time and had tasty pastries. 
  •  Bargained a motorickshaw for 13000kyats to take us to Maungmakan beach, which was a 45 minute ride away 
  •  Stayed at Coconut Guesthouse.  Duplex bungalows for $25USD/25000kyats per night, no breakfast or aircon.  Apparently in 2 months they will be getting a strong enough generator for aircon.  The aircon units are already all installed.  
  • Lunch at one of the huts on the beach, no English signage or menu.  Just point at what you want to eat from the cooler and they’ll cook it for you!  Had fried squid and vegetables for 3000kyats and rice for 300kyats. 
  • Dinner at the guesthouse- garlic pepper shrimp 5000kyats and rice 500kyats.  Guesthouse restaurant was more pricey, but so tasty! 
Day 16-19: Maungmakan beach
  • Ate many more times at the same hut on the beach, because the food was so good and the lady there could speak at least some English.  Whole bbq fish 2000kyats, fried vegetables 1500 kyats, shrimp 4000kyats, young coconut water 500kyats, chicken skewers 2400kyat 
  • Rented a motorbike from the guesthouse at 10000kyats/day.  Doubled on the motorbike and went to Nabule beach, which was gorgeous and completely empty, but also had a strong undertow.  Gas costs 700kyats for approx 750cc bottle at the roadside stands.  
  •  Bought snacks from the market: bananas 500kyats, cookies 450 kyats, sweet buns 450kyats, large bag of fried beans 600kyats, 10 bags of chips for 450kyats, watermelon 850kyats 
  •  Had breakfasts of noodles at the market for 300-500kyats
Day 20: Maungmakan to Yangon
  • Booked transfer back to airport in Dawei for 15000kyats.  Transfer was by car and only took 20minutes.
  • Taxi stand at Yangon airport quoted 10000kyats to Agga guesthouse this time, then later mentioned it was for an aircon car.  This was the first time that anyone had mentioned the price differential for aircon vs no aircon.  Not sure if they were trying to rip me off or not.  Anyhow, got a non-aircon taxi for 8000kyats. 
  • Bought random souvenirs and snacks at Citymart.  Thought their prices were pretty good in general.
Day 21: Yangon to home
  • Taxi back to airport 8000kyats 
  •  Exchanged kyats back to USD at the airport.  There are multiple desks to choose from.  The best rate we found was 997kyats=1USD.  There are desks after you pass through immigration, so don’t worry about changing before you check in.
Summary
  • In total, the 4 internal flights cost $478USD per person.  This was probably the only thing we paid in USD.
  • For simplicity we paid for everything else in kyats.  Yes, you do end up paying a little bit more due to all the conversions etc... However, decided that the amount was low enough.  Also, you can abuse your kyats all you want – people will take the grossest looking kyats, but only pristine USD.  
  • Breaking it down, it cost $50USD per person, per day, including internal flights.  Without the internal flights, it was just over $27USD per person, per day. 

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Food in Maungmakan


Beach sellers selling snacks. Were too scared to try.


The food in Maungmakan was delicious.  I wish I took pictures of it!  We ate most of our meals at this hut on the beach.  The lady who ran it spoke a tiny bit of English, just enough that we were able to order food and know how much to pay.  The process at any of the huts are the same.  There are no menus.  You walk into the open kitchen, and pick what you would like to eat from the cooler.  We had stirfried squid, shrimp, baked fish, and baked crab.  The guesthouse also served food and we had the most delicious garlic shrimp and garlic squid.  My mouth is watering just thinking of the food!!!  The food was very different from the food in other parts of Myanmar, being that there were no curries.  As it was the end of the trip, we were getting more adventurous with our eating.  We ate noodles a couple of times at the market stalls.  The best bowl of noodles had a fish broth topped with pork blood and pork fat.  
Noodle stall in the market

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Learn to Ride and Roadtrip to Nabule Beach


Nabule Beach

In Maungmakan, unless you know the Myanmar language, there is no public transportation.  While Maungmakan Beach was gorgeous, we wanted to travel further to other deserted beaches that we had heard of.  To do this, we needed to rent a motorbike.  It took some persuading from me, but finally K agreed to learn how to ride a motorbike.  The plan was for her to drive and for me to double on the back.  Why couldn’t I drive? Well, we knew that I couldn’t steer particularly well, after trying with the much lighter ebike in Bagan.  The guesthouse owner, who rented us the motorbike, kept on asking us ‘do you know how to ride a motorbike?’.  I think it was pretty obvious our lack of experience.  However, K jumped on the motorbike and did a test run down the driveway and back.  She seemed to get the hang of it, so I jumped on the back and we were off on an adventure to Nabule Beach.  
Empty red dirt roads
Just like everywhere else in Myanmar, the roads are not labelled.  And even if they were, we wouldn’t be able to read the Myanmar script.  The guesthouse had a rudimentary map that they provided to us.  We cross referenced with the other available references and developed a more specific set of directions to get there.  Nabule beach is located 25 km away from Maungmakan.   
Map we used to get to Nabule Beach
We knew this would be an all day trip, so first we hit the market and stocked up on fruit and snacks.  Then, we bought gas at a roadside stand.  Across Myanmar, people sell gas in glass bottles at the side of the road.  Finally, we were off on an adventure!  The road quality varied greatly on our journey.  There were paved sections, potholed sections, dirt sections, and loose gravel.  We finally made it to Nabule beach, and were delighted to have the entire golden sand beach to ourselves.  A bonus was the large shade trees at the beach’s edge that protected us from the midday rays.  The downside to Nabule was that the waves were quite large and there was a very strong undertow.  Have you been to the Pacific side of Cabo?  Well, the waves felt exactly like that.  I was too scared to go any further than my knees.  
 
The journey back followed the new ‘expressway’, built for the planned super port nearby.  Once this project goes through, the entire area will change with the increased traffic.  I am very thankful we were able to experience it now, in its pristine, secluded state.